Miscellaneous Crop Notes
See also:
Growing Info for Peppers,
ChilePeppers
General crop guides
Onions
- Fertility requirements
- Primary need is for nitrogen. Approximately 3# of nitrogen per 1000 sq ft over season (~5 oz per 100 sq ft). Should be divided into multiple applications via side-dress.
- Overall requirement: 160 lbs (per acre) ÷ 43,560 (square feet in an acre) = 0.0037 lb per sq ft. For 100 sq ft = .37 pounds nitrogen.
-
For home gardeners, the rate of Ammonium Sulfate to apply 20 units per acre is 1 cup per 20′. If using manure, the rate will be 10 cups per 20′ in most cases. Blood meal’s formulation is usually 13-0-0, indicating a rate of 1.6 cups per 20′ in your garden.
Fertilization Requirements for Onions
Timing of applications of Nitrogen in onions.
The follow chart of timing for nitrogen fertilization of onions is based on total nitrogen requirement for season of 160 pounds (units) per acre. For 100 square feet, the amount would be
160 lbs ÷ 43,560 (square feet in an acre) + 100
which equals 0.37 pounds = ~6 ounces (
of nitrogen).
- One container of bloodmeal = 9.5 oz x .12 (% nitrogen) = 1.14 oz nitroget
Stage |
Number of Leaves |
Amount to Apply per Acre |
Total Applied for Season |
Pre Plant |
4 |
20 units (12.5%) |
40 units |
Roots Established (2 weeks after planting) |
5 |
20 units (12.5%) |
60 units |
Slow Growth (every 2 weeks) |
6-8 |
20 units (12.5%) every 2 weeks for 3 applications (6 weeks) |
120 units |
Rapid Growth before bulbing |
9-11 |
20 units every (12.5%) 2 weeks for 2 applications (4 weeks) |
160 units |
Bulbing |
12 (100 days after planting) |
Quit any additional applications |
n/a |
Assuming 20 units of N in soil testing
Source of info: https://dixondalefarms.com/onionfertilization/
Strawberries
Broccoli
Planting Spacing
Copied from
Illinois Vegetable Growing Guide
Vegetable |
Spacing in row |
Seed to sow per foot |
Distance between plants when thinned or transplanted |
Distance between rows |
Planting depth |
|
inches |
inches |
inches |
Asparagus |
ÃÂ
.. |
12-18 |
36-60 |
6-8 |
Bean, bush, lima |
3-4 |
Do not thin |
18-30 |
1-2 |
Bean, bush, snap |
6 |
Do not thin |
18-24 |
1-2 |
Beet |
10 |
2-4 |
12-18 |
ý-1 |
Broccoli |
….. |
18-24 |
30-36 |
(d) |
Cabbage |
ÃÂ
.. |
9-18 |
18-30 |
(d) |
Carrot |
15-20 |
1-3 |
12-18 |
ý |
Cauliflower |
ÃÂ
.. |
18-24 |
24-36 |
(d) |
Chard |
8-10 |
4-8 |
18-24 |
ý-1 |
Corn, sweet |
1-2 in row |
9-12, single plants |
24-48 |
1-2 |
4-6 per hill |
36, hills (3 plants per hill) |
|
|
Cucumber |
3 in row |
12, single plants |
48-72 |
1 |
4-5 per hill |
36, hills (3 plants per hill) |
|
|
Eggplant |
ÃÂ
.. |
18-24 |
30-36 |
(d) |
Endive |
4-6 |
9-12 |
18-24 |
ý |
Garlic, from cloves |
ÃÂ
.. |
3 |
12-18 |
1ý |
Kale |
4-6 |
8-12 |
18-24 |
ý |
Kohlrabi |
6-8 |
3-6 |
18-24 |
ý |
Lettuce, leaf |
10 |
2-4 |
12-18 |
ý |
Muskmelon |
3 in row |
12,single plants |
48-72 |
1 |
4-5 per hill |
36, hills (3 plants per hill) |
|
|
Mustard |
20 |
1-2 |
12-18 |
ý |
New Zealand spinach |
4-6 |
12 |
24-30 |
1 |
Okra |
3 |
12-15 |
36 |
1 |
Onion, from seed |
10-15 |
2-4 |
12-18 |
ý-1 |
Onion, from plants or sets |
ÃÂ
.. |
1-4 |
12-18 |
1-4 |
Parsley |
10-15 |
4-6 |
12-18 |
ý |
Peas |
10-12 |
Do not thin |
18-24 |
2 |
Pepper |
ÃÂ
.. |
18-24 |
18-24 |
(d) |
Potato |
1 |
10-12 |
24-36 |
4 |
Pumpkin |
1-2 in row |
24-36, single plants |
84-120 |
1 |
4-5 per hill |
72, hills (3 plants per hill) |
|
|
Radish, spring |
10-15 |
1 |
12-18 |
ý |
Radish, winter |
10-15 |
2-4 |
12-18 |
ý |
Rhubarb |
ÃÂ
.. |
24-36 |
36-48 |
(d) |
Rutabaga |
4-6 |
6-8 |
18-24 |
ý |
Spinach |
12-15 |
2-4 |
12-18 |
ý |
Squash, summer |
2-3 in row |
18-24, single plants |
36-48 |
1 |
4-5 per hill |
48, hills (3 plants per hill) |
|
|
Squash, winter |
1-2 in row |
24-36, single plants |
84-120 |
1 |
4-5 per hill |
72, hills (3 plants per hill) |
|
|
Sweet potato |
ÃÂ
.. |
12-18 |
36-48 |
(d) |
Tomato |
ÃÂ
.. |
18-36 |
36-60 |
(d) |
Turnips |
6-8 |
2-4 |
12-18 |
ý |
15-20 (greens) |
|
|
|
Watermelons |
1-2 in row 4-5 per hill |
24-36, single plants 72, hills (3 plants per hill) |
84-120 |
1 |
Companion Planting
Source: image and notes taken from
https://livelovefruit.com/companion-planting-chart/.
- Amaranth should be planted with corn to shade the soil and retain water. It also helps attract predatory ground beetles.
- Asparagus can be planted with basil, cilantro, dill, marigolds, nasturtiums, oregano, parsley, peppers, sage, thyme and tomatoes. Asparagus actually repels nematodes that attack tomato plants, and tomatoes repel asparagus beetles.
- Apples and Apricots surprisingly love to be planted next to garlic, but it makes sense. Garlic helps repel pests like the fruit tree bore, aphids and mites. The tree roots also absorb sulfur produced by the garlic, making the tree more resistant to fungus, mold and black spot. Marigolds are another winner for fruit trees, as they help attract pollinators (which then pollinate the flowers of the fruit trees). These flowers also help discourage nematodes in the soil, which beneficial for fruit trees.
- Basil is a great herb to plant next to tomatoes to help improve their flavor. It also helps repel aphids, asparagus beetles, mites, flies, mosquitoes and tomato horn worm. For this reason, it should also be planted next to asparagus. Basil also works good when planted next to oregano and peppers.
- Beans are all nitrogen fixers of the soil, so they should be planted next to plants of the Brassica family, carrots, celery, chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, peas, potatoes, radish and strawberries. Avoid planting near chives, garlic, leeks and onion (they don’t like them!). Beets and pole beans should also be avoided next to one another as they can stunt each others growth.
- Beets can be planted next to bush beans, Brassicas, corn, garlic, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mint and potatoes. Avoid planting beets next to pole beans.
- Borage is a wonderful flower and companion too many plants. It deters tomato hornworm and cabbage moth caterpillars – so make sure you plant them next to tomatoes and cabbages! Borage also attracts pollinators, so plant it around plants that need pollinating like squash, melons, and cucumbers. It is also great for the soil and compost.
- Bok Choy may experience improved growth and health if it is planted alongside beets, bush beans, carrots, chamomile, chard, cucumbers, dill, kale, lettuce mint, nasturtiums, potatoes, sage and spinach.
- Brassicas like broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale, kohlrabi and turnip all benefit from chamomile, cilantro, dill, mint, rosemary and sage. Broccoli particularly likes being planted next to potatoes for improved flavor (however, some websites note that the two prefer different soil pH – so try this combination yourself to see how it works!). Cauliflower also likes to be planted next to celery, because the strong scent of celery helps repel Brassica butterflies that can often destroy an entire cauliflower crop!
- Carrots plant well with beans, Brassicas, chives, leeks, lettuce, onions, peppers, pole beans, radish, rosemary, sage, and tomatoes (quite the companion plant!). Avoid planting next to dill, parsnips and potatoes, though. Tomatoes will bring out the flavor in carrots, but your carrots might be smaller as tomatoes and carrots compete for soil nutrients.
- Cherries love garlic just like apples and apricots (and for the same reasons). Garlic helps repel pests like the fruit tree bore, aphids and mites. The tree roots also absorb sulfur produced by the garlic, making the tree more resistant to fungus, mold and black spot. Marigolds also plant well with cherries, helping to attract pollinators.
- Chives do great when planted next to tomatoes and carrots, as it helps bring out their flavors. Also works well when planted next to Brassicas. Chives repel aphids, carrot rust flies and Japanese beetles. They should not be planted next to beans and peas.
- Cilantro repels aphids, potato beetles, and spider mites.
- Corn is a companion to beans, beets, cucumber, dill, melons, parsley, peas, potato, squash and sunflower. It should not be planted next to celery or tomatoes. Amaranth can also be planted between corn rows to increase mulching (conserve soil moisture) and reduce weeds.
- Cucumber loves to be planted next to asparagus, beans, Brassicas, celery, corn, dill, kohlrabi, lettuce, onion, peas, and radishes. They shouldn’t be planted next to potatoes or sage, however. Corn and sunflowers work like a trellis for cucumbers to attach on and grow upward. Dill will help cucumbers by attracting predatory insects, and nasturtiums improve the flavor and growth of cucumbers.
- Dill improves the health of cabbages and other Brassicas like cauliflower and kale. It is a great companion for corn, cucumbers, lettuce and onions. Avoid planting next to carrots and tomatoes! Dill attracts ladybugs, parasitoid wasps, hoverflies, bees, and garden spiders (making it a very beneficial garden herb).
- Eggplant is a good companion for amaranth, beans, marigolds, peas, peppers, spinach and thyme. Do not plant next to fennel!
- Garlic is a great companion plant for roses to help repel aphids. It is high in sulfur, so it also helps get rid of pests like whiteflies, Japanese beetles, root maggots, carrot rust fly and other non-beneficial bugs. It is a great companion for beets, Brassicas, celery, fruit trees (like apricots, apples and cherries), lettuce, potatoes, strawberries, and tomatoes. Do not plant next to peas.
- Lettuce like arugula, radicchio, green leaf lettuce, romaine, you name it, like to be planted next to beets, Brassicas, carrots, celery, chervil, cucumbers, dill, garlic, onions, radish, spinach, squash and strawberries.
- Marigolds produce chemicals that repel whiteflies, Mexican bean beetles, root knot nematodes, and root lesion nematodes. They are great for planting around fruit trees, but should not be planted around beans.
- Marjoram grows well next to all plants, and is believed to stimulate the growth of plants around it. Marjoram particularly loves asparagus. It is very attractive to bees and other pollinators, so it is great planted next to plants that need pollinating like cucumbers and squash.
- Mint helps attract earthworms, overflies, and predatory wasps. It also repels cabbage moths, aphids, and flea beetles. Mint is invasive, so it is best planted on its own in containers around a garden. Do not plant near parsley.
- Nasturtiums act as a great trap crop for aphids, and they also help get rid of whiteflies, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, Colorado potato beetles and Mexican bean beetles. It is a great companion flower for Brassicas, cucumbers, melons, radishes and tomatoes. They provide good cover for ground beetles and spiders, and help attract many different pollinators like bees and butterflies.
- Onions love the herbs chamomile and summer savory to improve their flavor. They also work great alongside beets, Brassicas, carrots, dill, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, strawberries and tomatoes. Do not plant near asparagus or peas. Onions help repel the carrot rust fly, hence why they should be planted next to carrots.
- Parsley likes to be grown next to asparagus, carrots, chives, corn, lettuce, onions and tomatoes. Allowing some parsley to go to bloom will help attract hoverflies and predatory wasps.
- Parsnips are great when grown next to green peas, bush beans, peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, rosemary and sage. Some vegetables and herbs do not like parsnip, however, and that includes carrots, celery, dill and fennel.
- Peas are wonderful companions for beans, carrots, celery, corn, cucumber, eggplant, parsley, parsnip, peppers, potatoes, radish, spinach, strawberries and tulips. Avoid planting next to onions.
- Peppers make good companion plants for asparagus, basil, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, endive, oregano, parsley, rosemary, squash, Swiss chard and tomatoes. Do not plant next to beans, Brassicas or fennel.
- Potatoes like to be planted next to beets, bush beans, celery, corn, garlic, marigolds, onions, and peas. Avoid planting next to asparagus, cucumber, Kohlrabi, melons, parsnips, rutabaga, squash, sunflower and turnips.
- Radishes make good neighbors for beans, beets, carrots, celeriac, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, mint, parsnip, peas, spinach, squash, and tomatoes. Avoid planting right next to potatoes. Planting radishes around your squashes will allow them to grow better and bloom, and will also prevent most pests of squash and cucumber.
- Rosemary loves to be planted next to beans, Brassicas, spinach and carrots. Rosemary helps repel cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles, and carrot rust flies.
- Sage repels cabbage moths and carrot rust flies, and also helps improve the health of parsnips. Do not plant next to cucumbers, which dislike aromatic herbs.
- Spinach is a great companion for Brassicas, eggplants, leeks, lettuce, peas, radishes and particularly strawberries. Do not plant near potatoes.
- Squash doesn’t only love to be planted next to corn, but it also works great next to lettuce, melons, peas and radish. Avoid planting next to Brassicas or potatoes. Borage is said to improve the growth and flavor of squash. Marigolds and nasturtium help repel many different squash pests.
- Strawberries respond well when coupled with beans, borage, garlic, lettuce, onions, peas, spinach and thyme. Avoid planting next to Brassicas, fennel and kohlrabi.
- Sunflowers are said to increase corn yields when planted next to corn rows. Use sunflowers as a means to attract pollinators to other crops, particularly squash and pumpkins, and any other crop that requires pollinating insects.
- Tomatoes are sensitive when it comes to companion planting, but they mostly benefit from asparagus, basil, beans, borage, carrots, celery, chives, collards, garlic, lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley and peppers. Do not plant next to dill, Brassicas, corn or kohlrabi. Potatoes may spread blight to tomatoes, so do not plant nearby. Tomatoes aren’t the best of friends with cucumbers either, as they are both require lots of resources in the soil. While some people have success planting them together, others do not. Try to avoid planting them in the same space.